Description by Buck Knives :
The Hoodlum is built for ultimate survival. Based on Ron Hood's design and built to Buck's quality standards, the Hoodlum helps ensure survival in extreme conditions. It is light enough to carry in a sheath, but heavy duty enough for any task out in the wilderness. The handle is built with a Shock Mitigation System (SMS) to alleviate shock and wasted energy when chopping. It has a large finger choil for providing control while whittling or other detailed activities. A groove is cut into the blade spine for scoring bone, bending wire, removing pots from a camp fire, or other small tasks. Also, the Micarta handles can be removed to create a spear by lashing a branch to the tang of the blade. There is an integrated hammer and lanyard hole in the butt of the handle and it comes with a heavy duty nylon sheath. The Hoodlum will serve all your survival needs from protection to food prep while out in the wilderness.
It also has a few attributes some of which are almost trademarks of Hood
and others which are unique to this blade :
Shock Mitigation System (skeletonized handle)
Finger choil
Hammer Butt
Blade Notch (pot lifter, bone scorer, etc.)
An introduction to the Hoodlum is given in the right by the designer,
Ron Hood. The video makes a number of points/illustrations :
primitive tribesmen commonly use large knives
designed for wilderness use
5160 spring steel (durable in regards to "punishment")
it is made for batoning, carving fuzz sticks
it isn't smart to chop bricks
chops frozen elk leg
demonstrates bone scorer
chamber (shock mitigation system), can be used as an emergency
pouch
scales easily unscrew
use the knife like a spear
cord wraps the handle
A couple of interesting points about the video :
his index finger in the glove is actually on the sharpened
part of the blade as the choil is too small when using a glove
the knife fails to cut a fuzz stick completely, at best makes a
few stubby shavings which would have no ability to light from a spark
there is a heavy disclaimer after the bone cutting even though
Ron notes the blade is not effected at all by the bone and uses it
to promote the edge retention of the steel
the bone scorer has little effect and the bone would have
splintered just as easily with a direct impact
User Feedback
Not all reception has been positive as as illustrated by the
video on the right where a number of issues are discussed :
disappointing fit and finish
moderate initial sharpness
issues with MOLLE attachments
zero sheath retention on the insert
rattles heavily
lots of shock when chopping
gross failure when splitting
Another user also has a less than stellar experience when splitting
just a few pieces of wood the edge turns and ripples
up into the primary grind. Note at this point that steel has been heavily
damaged if it is not straightened then it will become a focal point
for stress and keep bending until it cracks. The only way to fix it
this type of damage is :
anneal and reharden
grind out all damage
very slowly and softly peen the edge back straight
Initial Impressions
Initial impressions :
handle is slick and specific to certain sized hands
grip will be problematic with gloves, more so with mitts
blade is very light, little power on the swing
tip is extremely pointy
gimmicky elements to design (notch, SMS, hammer butt)
Comparing the rough carving ability to a
#1260 Mora using light force (25-35 lbs)
in a forward grip, the Hoodlum has about 70 (6) % of the rough carving
ability of the Mora in regards to number of slices to make a point
in soft pine. However while the cutting ability is decent as the edge
is relatively thin and acute there are pretty significant issues
with the handle :
the thumb ramp and jimping jam into palm below the thumb
the index finger cutout jams into the middle finger
Due to these issues, mainly the first one, the Hoodlum is limited to
using such light force unless gloves are used. If a heavy glove is used,
unless they are very thin, the index finger will make contact with the
sharpened edge.
Food
Using the Hoodlum in the kitchen there were a few things immediately
and obviously observed :
it is significantly heavier than a regular chef/utility blade
it is awkward to work to a cutting board
it is awkward to use peeling and coring
the thickness increases the force required on thick fruits/vegetabes
If the cutting is more utility based such as just cutting up vegetables
for a stew or fruits for a salad most of these issues are minor.
A few comparative cuts:
Once the foods is reduced down to celery and the like there is no significant
difference in force and it is all about handling. Of course in a commercial
kitchen it would be disregarded immediately due to lack of proper handling
ability and the higher rate of fatigue, but again just working at camp and
such on smaller foods there would be no real issue.
The turnip cutting is an interesting example of how an increase in
thickness does not always translate to a proportonal loss in cutting ability
and how a number does not always give the full measure of the performance.
The Hoodlum will crack the turnip after it has made a partial cut and thus
the force increases at first but then stops and then decreases rapidly.
In comparison the
Chicago Cutlery Chef's
knife makes a consistent and smooth cut. The main difference here is
control. The cracking with the Hoodlum makes cutting even slices much
more difficult and increases fatigue as there is more effort to control
the blade in the cut.
The Caine was heavier in hand but aside from that
peeled quite efficiently in a forward grip. It was
also more comfortable and efficient in the dicing
as it is easier to use on the cutting board due to the dropped
blade and it cuts into the potatoes easier with the thinner
grind and doesn't wedge/stick to the potatoes.
the Chicago Cutlery Chef's knife peels
the potatoes easier in spite of the very wide blade as it
is much thinner and more acute at the edge and far lighter.
It also of course dices them ideally on the cutting board.
The performance of the Chef's knife wasn't surprising as it is of course
designed to do such work. It was interesting to see just how much the
thinner and more acute edge could compensate for the very wide blade. Of
course this is very coarse peeling, just removing the peel and the waste
is not that important. Removing the rinds from various foods is more
sensitive to blade width.
Utility
Cutting :
pop cans (plastic and metal)
light elastic
screw strips
pallet wrapping
bubble wrapping
very thick polystyrene foam
Comparing it to the
Chris Caine Survival Tool, the Hoodlum's
slimmer point was much easier to cut into the cans but again the handle was
the limiting factor as in a side grip cutting the bottles the index finger
cutout digs right into the palm. In general as it came sharp most of
those types of materials are easily cut. The edge was thin and acute enough
to cut through the screw strips (thick plastic). There was a lot of binding
noted on the thick foam which took 40 lbs to make a complete slice, but
even the
#1260 Mora took 25 lbs to make
a slice as that type of material wedges badly.
Doing some more cardboard cutting alongside the :
Junglas : the slimmer blade of the Hoodlum
was able to make turning cuts easier
not much different than the
MTech MT-151 they are almost identical.
As the boxes were just being broken down
and the cuts made in the folds, as long as the blades were sharp
all of them sliced through with very little force. While there were
differences noted they would not be a concern just cutting up a
few boxes. But if a lot of such work had to be done either the
MTech MT-151 or
Hoodlum would be preferred for ease and just general security
and safety compared to the other larger and wider blades.
Field
Some quick and light work with the Hoodlum showed quickly various issues with
the grip mainly related to the index finger cut out :
light cutting works ok with a thumb ramp grip
hammer grips for heavy cutting quickly get uncomfortable
In general :
it is extremely light and benefits from very fast cutting,
especially using a lot of snap / rotation cutting and working with the tip.
regardless of swing though the power and cutting ability
is far behind a blade such as the
Cold Steel Kukri machete.
Doing more work with the Hoodlum and a couple of larger knives
including the Cold Steel Kukri machete :
the Hoodlum works well on small branches up to about 1" or so (pine, spruce and fir)
the kukri machete is again very clearly significantly better as the wood gets larger than 1" and gets more dense
Noting too surprising here, as more work is done it becomes clear that the
Hoodlum is more of a light scrub knife. It doesn't take very much wood to
reduce it to having to take multiple chops whereas the kukri machete and
similar blades with more heft keep sweeping them off easily in single chops.
However it has to be taken into account that those same larger blades can be
uncomfortable or awkward in lighter use.
Comparing the knife to
North 49 mini-hatchet the Hoodlum
showed its worth and the advantages (and disadvantages) of a long blade
compared to a small axe :
the small hatchet works very well in tight situations
when the branches are smallish the Buck Hoodlum has a pronounced
advantage in sweeping off more of the branches in single swings
Some more notes on use :
the Buck Hoodlum is really starting to be more of a three finger
grip blade, which is unfortunate as it isn't suited to that grip wise
at all
with a cord wrapped handle the Hoodlum can poke through the
sheath
Using the Hoodlum to split a piece of 4" Spruce while sitting down with
moderate impacts on the spine the performance was rather dramatic :
the edge rippled shearing through small knots
the blade cracked through the notch
the blade actually split above the edge
It took only three moderate impacts to basically cause the blade to
disintegrate. The low strength and brittle nature was consistent with other
issues noted with the blade in use.
Edge Retention
The Hoodlum was compared to the
North 49 mini-hatchet cutting some
scrap lumber and surprisingly the Hoodlum did not show a significant
advantage which is not representative of properly hardened 5160.
Sharpening
Sharpening the Hoodlum, it responded very well to even basic stones which
would be expected from a medium carbon, low alloy and low carbide steel.
Moving on to higher quality stones, a 1000 grit King waterstone and a 3000 and
8000 waterstone from Henckels, the Hoodlum immediately responded and took
a very fine polish very quickly. However there was an immediate problem as
noted on the picture on the right.
The chopping as noted in the work in the above left the edge in a very
ragged state which was chipped both visibly as well as large sections of the
edge (several sections over one centimeter long) was also deformed and bent
laterally. The bends were the most damaging to the sharpening as the large
sections of the edge being pushed over left it over stressed and it heavily
burred and the burr would not be ground off on the reverse side sharpening.
The only way to remove that damaged steel would be to simply grind it all off.
Steel
5160 is a spring steel, essentially 1060 carbon steel with enough
chromium to increase depth of hardening to prevent pearlite formation
in thick parts. For knives this really isn't an issue as knives generally
are not thick enough to prevent full hardening. The main difference
between 5160 and 1060 in a knife then is then :
the small amount of free chromium which will mainly retard patina
formation as it isn't high enough to actually provide corrosion
resistance
the small amount of alloy carbid (mainly chromium) which provides
some measure of grain refinement and protection from over soaking
a small increase in wear resistance again from the primary
alloy chromium carbide
However these effects are going to be very small and the main difference is
one which is more about ease when it comes to manufacturing now actually
in use for a knife. Basically what this steel offers is :
an as quenched hardness of 63 HRC which can be tempered to the
standard 60 HRC without hitting the temper embrittlement zone which
effects 1095 severely
a very tough steel which would resist chipping very well
a high hardness to resist deformation
a very high grindability to allow restoration after very heavy
use very quickly with simple stones
What it lacks is :
any appreciable corrosion resistance
any appreciable wear resistance
However for a large knife only the first is really a consideration if desired.
In general for a blade to be used for chopping, blunting is mainly by
deformation if the blade is tough enough, or fracture if it is not. It is
very rare for the edge to blunt slowly because of the high probability of
contacting grit in the wood, bark or especially dirt if root work or
harvesting deadfall is required.
Grip
The grip stands out immediately as a weak point and
regardless of the type of use was always an immediate.
Highlights :
very slick, especially when wet
thumb ramp / jimping uncomfortable in an over hand grip
finger choil is very hand size specific
side grip (and reverse hammer) is uncomfortable due to finger choil
cramped with moderate gloves (blade choil especially)
Overview
Overview :
sheath insert has no retention and knife rattles when sheathed
grip has multiple problems with ergonomics
screws in handle come loose easily
tip is exceptionally fine for a knife of this size/thickness
cutting ability is moderate/high for a knife of this size/thickness
chopping ability is low/moderate due to light weight/heft
steel has problems with weakness and brittleness
guard makes kitchen work a bit awkward
notch is an obvious weak point and aggravating in many respects
In short, this isn't similar to the Junglas
though they are often compared.
It is much more like a stout Tramontina
machete rather than a short parang. Assuming the performance of the steel
isn't representative, this would make a nice camp knife where you were doing a
lot more cutting and a lot less chopping, i.e. :