French Billhooks


Knives :
  • Fiskars Brush Axe (left side)
  • Brush Hook (right side)
  • Bill Hooks (center)
  • Cold Steel Heavy Machete (bottom)

This review consists of :

Specifications

Basic specifications for the second bill hook:

The third bill hook:

Initial Impressions

Initial impressions :

Initial Sharpening

Restoring the third billhook from the top :

The first few passes removed the rust and showed an almost serrated edge it was so heavily damaged. Similar in sanding the handle fine sandpaper did nothing. In fact after some use with the handle more work had to be done to resand and then checker to make the grip comfortable and secure. Now it really can't be blamed on the handle design as again this is an old tool and literally is slick with years and years of sweat.

Restoring the first billhook from the top :

The cracks in the handle were filled with some epoxy and based off of experience with the previous one it was sanded more aggressively and then checkered before oiling. Under all the sweat once sanded off the wood was extremely dry and soaked up oil extremely fast. Again that is not surprising as these are all very old tools.

Stock Work

As a quick check the third Billhook was used alongside a Mora #1260 to carve some pine with relatively light force, 10-15 lbs. The Billhook was able to achieve about 50 (4) % of the performance of the Mora (in terms of amount of material removed).

This would be expected given the higher angle and leverage disadvantage of the Billhook (start of cut about 1" in front of the grip). Both are basically linear effects so the expected performance would be about (10/13.5)*(2/3) or 49 %.

Of course there is a huge difference in fatigue rates as this is a large and forward heavy knife. This comparison isn't intended to actually show if the billhook is suitable for such work just to make a point about the relative cutting ability. The edge on these tools as noted is not that much heavier than on a standard Mora.

Field Work

Using the third billhook on some scrap wood, while the penetration was decent, and there were no real issues with feedback, it was not able to match the performance of the Fiskar's billhook which is a bit surprising considering the relative weight and heft and edge profile. A little investigation and attention during some more work showed that the issue was with the grip.

While the grip had been sanded and lightly oiled with linseed oil, it was still too slick as not all the sweat and grime had been removed. The handle was simply moving too much in the chopping and thus the energy of the chop was being lost. Before much more work was done the handle was sanded, then an aggressive checkering pattern was applied and then it was coated in linseed oil.

Using the third billhook in the above picture cutting some alders it was a near perfect tool for such work :

Now while a heavy bowie pattern can do similar work, without the hook more force has to be used and more damage will be taken. This type of work really showcases the design of the billhook.

For rougher work still, the hook showcases even more ability :

Now in really rocky soil then an actual pick/spike would be useful as shown in the cKc hatchet in the picture on the right. While the billhook could easily do that it will take fairly excessive blunting off the rocks and there is no real utility in having a sharpened edge for such work. Note that some people would keep the leading edge of the billhook basically unsharpened for that purpose and only sharpen the inside of the curve.

Overview

Comments and references

Comments can be emailed to Billhook - initial impressions

  • Billhook - initial chopping, issues with the grip
  • Brush Clearing : french billhook, cKc medium hatchet and XL Forrester
  • French Billhook (Andre the Giant style) : a little light brush work

    Or in the YouTube Playlist.

    Most of the pictures in the above are in the PhotoBucket album.


    Last updated : 07/02/2012
    Originally written: 28/01/2012
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